Posts Tagged ‘Olivier Favresse’

REEL ROCK 11

Tuesday, September 20th, 2016

READY TO ROCK! 5 korte klimfilms verpakt tot één spannende REEL ROCK filmvoorstelling:

YOUNG GUNS
Meet the new faces of climbing: 15-year-old Ashima Shiraishi and 16-year-old Kai Lightner are the leaders of the next generation, already taking the sport to the next level. A trip to Norway puts their skills to the test, and Ashima attempts to make history on a V15 boulder in Japan.

BOYS IN THE BUGS
Will Stanhope and Matt Segal are elite-level crack climbers and world-class goofballs. Laugh along as they go for broke on an epic four-year battle to climb a forbidding 5.14 finger crack high in the Canadian alpine wilderness of the Bugaboos.

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Brette Harrington climbing a wide crack in Indian Creek. (Photo: Drew Smith / REEL ROCK)

BRETTE
Follow rising talent Brette Harrington on a global journey from her hometown granite in Squamish to the big wall proving ground of Yosemite’s El Capitan and onto a landmark free solo in Patagonia.

RAD DAD
Lone wolf Mike Libecki travels to the most remote corners of the globe to find unclimbed walls and establish first ascents. When Mike becomes a father, he has a new challenge: to reconcile his life of adventure with the demands of parenthood, but he may also gain a new partner for his expeditions.

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Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll climbing on Baffin Island. (Photo: Ben Ditto / REEL ROCK)

DODO’S DELIGHT
Pack your penny whistle and batten down the hatches for a madcap sailing adventure in the Arctic Circle aboard the good ship Dodo’s Delight. Join Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll, Ben Ditto, and brothers Nico and Oliver Favresse for a rollicking musical journey across open seas and up unclimbed big walls.

Zondag 25 september 2016 in Keulen, aanvang: 20:00 uur in het Cinenova (Großer Saal). Meer informatie.

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Adventures of the Dodo/ Vertical Sailing 2

Saturday, May 2nd, 2015

Je hebt er niet veel voor nodig. Een bivakveldje, volle maan, drie gekke Belgen met een instrument en een misschien wel nog gekkere 75- jarige kapitein. Rozig van een heerlijke dag klimmen in Freyr was het genieten om met zoveel klimmers te kijken en luisteren naar de lezing met film van Nicolas & Olivier Favresse, Sean Villeneuva en kapitein Bob Shepton. Een verhaal dat veel meer vertelt dan de spannende avonturen van een paar sterke klimmers in een onherbergzaam poollandschap.

Sean, Bob, Nico en Ollie tijdens de première in Freyr (photo: Paul Lahaye)

Deze Belgische klimmers én kapitein Bob niet te vergeten zijn een ware inspiratie voor iedereen die even kwijt is waar het in het leven om gaat. Bedankt voor deze mooie en bijzondere avond!

Plezier op de bivak (photo: Paul Lahaye)

Ollie en Sean (photo: Paul Lahaye)

Volle bak op het bivakveldje (photo: Paul Lahaye)

Klik op een foto voor een groter formaat.

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Back to civilization – Baffin Island Expedition

Monday, October 13th, 2014

Bob Shepton, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva and Black Diamond Ambassador Nicolas Favresse are back from Baffin Island:

“How could we describe the feeling of taking our first shower in over two months? Mmmm… Well yes … We have just hit civilization in Greenland. These last 3 weeks has been very exciting in many ways! Adventurous climbing, a close polar bear encounter (without anything to defend ourselves) and a very scary crossing back to Greenland, which included a strong storm with snow and huge waves! On this kind of trip the adventure never seems to end until you are back under that hot shower. It does make the shower so much better!

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

So three weeks ago we sailed away from Sam Ford Fjord to explore Gibbs Fjord. Finally the intense weather conditions in Sam Ford Fjord, eased off allowing us to see some blue in the sky. It was very enjoyable sun bathing on the deck while sailing around enjoying the magical scenery of mountains, big walls, glaciers and Icebergs floating around the Fjords. However, it being early September, the temperature was decreasing day by day proportionally to the area of our bodies on which we would apply sunscreen. It feels amazing how you can sail for days in these waters and see absolutely no sign of humans. At this stage we had to be careful to spare the use of the motor in order not to run out of fuel. So we sailed even when there was not much wind; slicing the water slowly but smoothly as we were scoping around. Finally we found the business: Gibbs Fjord is full of impressive walls mostly untouched. Quickly our attention was caught by a steep and long aesthetical North-facing arête. There were lots of south facing walls but for some reason the most appealing objective for us was a North face which we knew would be cold to free climb at this time of the year.

Nico offwidthing his way up the first ascent of "Walking the plank" at Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Nico and Ollie (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

The next day Sean and I set off for it while Ben and Oli decided to trade the committing adventurous climbing for a nice hike to the top of some mountains. The blue sky turned grey again with a big band of mist, which quickly spiced up the climbing as snowflakes were flying around. In a couple hours the wall was covered with a very thin but rather sticking layer of the white stuff. Fortunately the climbing was steep, so on the bottom section of the wall it hadn’t accumulated too much and we enjoyed some of the best rock quality we encountered on this trip. But as we went higher things got more interesting. The rock was completely plastered! It reminded us the famous Scottish mixed climbing mecca Ben Nevis except we were free climbing. Fingers were jamming in snowy crack and our numb feet constantly slipping away. I never thought it would be possible to free climb in these condition! Everywhere we could rest we had to stop to warm up our numb fingers and even for the easiest move it was a challenge not to slip and fall off. It was tough but the atmosphere so magical we kept going. Thankfully the sky cleared up and, since the last 300m had been above the mist, it was a relief to finish the climb finally in descent condition. As it was getting dark, we reached the top again of a beautiful virgin feature and enjoyed the satisfaction and the unique scenery of Gibbs Fjord. If I could chose, I would never free climb again in these conditions but at the same time it was such a unique experience that I will never forget it.

Never thought it possible to free climb in these conditions! Everything slips off while your fingers and the feet get totally numb… Sean on the first ascent of "Walking the plank" Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

While Sean and I were struggling with cold and snow Ben and Oli were strolling in the sun enjoying what they thought to be a safe way up a mountain. For the past month we hadn’t seen any more polar bears so slowly we started leaving the gun behind when we went on land. Ben and Oli thought a mountain made of rock and glacier is no place for polar bears to hang out. On the summit they enjoyed the view for a while and then started heading back down. 30m down from the summit all of a sudden a polar bear showed up from behind a boulder only 15m away! It was a massive beast and lucky for them they were talking loud and that somehow scared the bear, which quickly ran away. When back on the boat, they wondered: Why was this polar bear up there in the middle of nowhere where there is absolutely no food? Then they realized that the bear must have followed them on the 3h walk to the top of the mountain. It was there only because he had smelled a nice meal. Ben and Oli were very lucky! The bear was surprised when they were walking straight towards it. From then on we were a little more cautious again.

Gibbs Fjord (photo: archive Nicolas Favresse)

Our last days on Baffin island we could feel winter arriving with the sea starting to freeze along the coast and the snow line dropping all the way down to sea level. Although there was so much more to do, it was time for us to make our way back to Greenland. With the perspective of rough sailing conditions, we knew the adventure wasn’t over. Indeed the crossing was tough because it was cold and snowy but the worst happened as we came in sight of Greenland. A big storm surprised us on the most tricky part of the crossing only 6 miles away from our destination! We had to weave through lots of rocks and low depth while the waves suddenly became huge. The boat was crashing in the waves and we were all wet and cold but thankfully we found shelter behind a little island and eventually reached the harbor of Sisimiut… That was the end of the adventure. Again, sailing and climbing proved to be a perfect combination.

In total we opened 10 new routes from 400 to 1000 meter and climbed in alpine style. We used the boat as a base camp and way of transportation to the base of each climb. We placed no bolts or pitons.

– Nico -”

Summary of climbs (coordinates are taken from the sea opposite to the start of routes):

Uummannaq Area (Greenland)

Ikerasak Peak:
– Married Mens’ Way E3, 5.10, 400 meters
Takes the left ridge of this peak. FA (free): Oli Favresse and Ben Ditto on the 13th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

– Crockodiles Have Teeth E5, 5.11b/c, 400 meters
The right hand edge of the main face, moving right at the top to finish by an overhanging crack. FA (free): Nico Favresse and Sean Villaneuva on the 13th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Qaqugdlugssuit:
– First ascent of Goliath Buttress (700 41N 510 13W)
Standard Deviation E4, 5.11, 500 meters
Followed lines on left of this buttress, some loose rock especially in the basalt band. FA (free): Nico Favresse and Ben Ditto on the 17th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

– Slingshot E3, 5.10, 500 meters
Followed lines on right side of buttress. FA (free) Oli Favresse and Sean Villaneuva Sean on the 17th of July 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Drygalskis Halvo:
– First ascent of the Funky Tower (70035N 510 16W)
No Place for People, a.k.a.Sunshine and Roses E6, 5.12a, 500 meters
A steep, varied, technical line towards the left side of this face. Reports of much loose rock, especially on the sloping terrace leading to the summit ridge. FA (free) Sean Villaneuva and Ben Ditto
Descend: Walking on the back side

Sam Ford Fjord (Baffin East coast)

Lurking Tower (Mike Libecki’s name – 700 35N 710 17W)
– Up the Creek without a Paddle E5 6a, 5.11+, 500 meters
Starts up the dihedral on the right and follows crack lines, turning a roof, to the top. Libecki’s aid route was followed after 7 pitches but without using any of the aid nor bolts. First Free Ascent: Sean
Villaneuva and Ben Ditto, 12 hours on the 15th/16th of August 2014
Descend: Walking on the back side

Super Unknown Tower:
– Imaginary Line E3 5c, 5.10+, 1000 meters
Takes the obvious red groove and crack on the right of the Tower leading almost to the top. The hardest pitches were after the groove at the top, especially as it was wet and snowy. This was the second ascent of the Super Unknown Tower. First Free Ascent: Sean Villaneuva and Ben Ditto on the 21st/22nd of August 2014
Descend: A rappel to remember straight down the original sheer aid route.

Walker Citadel:
– First ascent of the South East Pillar (Drunken Pillar) (700 50N 710 43W)
Shepton’s Shove E6 6b, 5.12a, 1000 meters
The obvious arête starting all the way down and leading to the top of the Pillar. The hardest pitches were at the top. FA (free): Nico and Oli Favresse on the 23rd/24th August 2014
Descend: Walk south to another summit and down into a gulley leading to a lake.

The Turret:
– First ascent of the East face of the Turret
Life on the Kedge E6 6b, sustain in the 5.11/5.12 range, 900 meters
Start on the buttress just to the right of the iconic chimney crack splitting the Turret from top to bottom, and takes the obvious orange pillar. Mid ways up, the lines goes on the left hand side where the cracks just kept coming out of nowhere! FA Nico and Oli Favresse on the 28th/29th of August 2014
Descend: 10 raps down the Swiss route straight from the top

Gibbs Fjord (Baffin Island):

Plank Wall:
– First ascent of the Plank Wall (700 50N 710 43W)
Walking the Plank E4 6a, 5.11+, 900 meters
Keeps mostly slightly left of the arête. Another quality climb with lot’s of steep cracks and excellent rock! But north facing, little sun. Sections were climbed covered in snow. FA Nico Favresse and Sean Villaneuva on the 4th/5th of September 2014
Descend: Rapping the route

(Source: Black Diamond)

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BD Climbing Catalog

Tuesday, March 5th, 2013

De online Climbing Catalog 2013 van Black Diamond overtreft mede door de vele schitterende foto’s en video’s elke verwachting! In de picture o.a. Adam Ondra, Dave MacLeod, Beat Kammerlander, Alex Honnold en Nalle Hukkataival.

Op de derde pagina vind je de video van Bernardo Gimenez met in de hoofdrol Nicolas en Ollie Favresse met Daniel Jung op zoek naar nieuwe lijnen in Noorwegen:

Bernardo Gimenez in de touwen met camera (photo: Bernardo Gimenez)

“BD Athletes Nico Favresse, Olivier Favresse and Daniel Jung are always on the hunt for first ascents, and their most recent search led them to Norway where they found a stunning, overhanging wall laced with cracks. The trio’s FA pursuit involved skin-shredding jams, mega whippers, and daily shenanigans, including scooter jumping and swapping tooth-brushing tips.”

The crack hunters (photo: Bernardo Gimenez)

Link naar de catalogus.

Thanks for the photos Bernardo!

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Internationale erkenning voor Belgen

Saturday, April 16th, 2011

Voor de prestaties van Olivier & Nicolas Favresse en Sean Villanueva, vorig jaar in Groenland (oa de 850 meter lange “Devil’s brew” op de Impossible Wall) krijgen de Belgen de prestigieuze Piolet d’Or trofee!

“The Greenland expedition overwhelmed the audience and jury with their sense of camaraderie. As many members of the jury told Alpinist, it was the climb that everyone wished they were on. Originally seen as a wildcard, the Greenland expedition’s antics and relaxed atmosphere were infectious, infusing the ceremonies with spontaneous outbursts of laughter and music.”

Lees het hele artikel op www.alpinist.com

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Trailer Vertical Sailing Greenland

Saturday, January 22nd, 2011

The Atlantic Ocean was a great concert venue, but on the down side we didn’t find any undiscovered island out there full of big walls as we had hoped. The best concert we had was when ex-hurricane Daniel rocked the boat: the waves where dancing to our music and even Bob put on his dancing shoes for the occasion. Besides that, there is a lot of water out there, and it was happening all around us: everything and nothing. We had the occasional visit of birds, whales (even killer whales!) and dolphins, which was always nice. After 14 days we finally saw land and walking on it we must have looked like Bambi taking her first steps. Bob and Dodo’s Delight are now safely back in Scotland and Bob is serious withdrawal symptoms of condensed milk.

We’re stroking the sweet limestone crimpers of our local Belgian climbing crag Freyr, but strangely we do not yet seem to be missing the corned beef. Maybe that will come… www.xpedition.be

Coming soon: In this five-part series, climbers Nico Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Seán Villanueva and Ben Ditto ship out for the summer with Captain Bob Shepton on his 33-foot sailboat in search of unclimbed big walls rising out of Greenland’s fjords. Video: Seán Villanueva

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Dodo’s delight: the floating base camp

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Rondzeilend langs de westkust van Groenland smullen Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto en Bob Shepton van het maagdelijke graniet. Maar behalve big walls hebben de mannen af te rekenen met slecht weer, nevel en ijsbergen. Lees meer op www.xpedition.be

Dodo's delight aan de westkust van Groenland (photo: www.xpedition.be)

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The devil’s brew

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Succes voor Ben, Bob, Nico, Ollie en Sean in Groenland:

“On July 12 we committed to “the impossible wall”. After 8 days we found ourselves on the summit on July 22. So how is it possible that we passed 11 days in only 8 you might be asking yourself? The answer my friend lies in the burning midnight sun and 30 hour-days or nights or whatever you want to call it. Our efforts on the wall and on our musical instruments yield probably the most adventurous route we have ever done.

"The devil’s brew" on Seagull wall on the West Coast of Greenland (photo: www.xpedition.be)

It has everything: grassy cracks, spongy mossy cracks, licheny faces, kitty litter off-widths and an inbuilt shower. We got rained on, we got shat on and we got vomited on. We now understand better why the locals call it “Seagull wall”. Every pitch of the 850m wall offered incredible beautiful sustained climbing, always challenging, on superb quality granite!”

Lees meer op www.xpedition.be

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Expedities

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010

Vorige week is de Lowe Alpine Trango Expeditie aangekomen in het basiskamp, aan de voet van Nameless Tower. Roland had wel nog even een buikvirus opgelopen, maar is nu weer helemaal opgeknapt. Deze week is een strak schema opgesteld om te acclimatiseren. Lees meer op hun blog

Trango Towers in de Karakorum in Pakistan

Aan de Westkust van Groenland zijn de broertjes Favresse en Sean Villanueva, niet alleen in gevecht met nieuwe lijnen maar ook met de motorproblemen van de Dodo’s Delight. Lees meer op de blog van xpedition.be

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Dodo’s Delight

Friday, June 11th, 2010

Vorig jaar liepen ze nog 600 kilometer op Baffin Island om 5 routes te klimmen in 45 dagen…. Tja, die 600 kilometers waren toch wel ver. Dat moet anders kunnen dachten ze:

Deze zomer vertrekken Sean en de broertjes Favresse, samen met de Amerikaanse fotograaf  Ben Ditto en zeiler Bob Shepton naar Groenland. Deze keer zonder wandelschoenen maar zeilend met de Dodo’s Delight naar de onbeklommen rotswanden van de westkust. Twee maanden hard klimmen en tot slot in drie weken zeilend terug naar huis.

Westkust van Groenland (photo: Bob Shepton)

Lees meer op www.belclimb.be

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Perfecte Condities

Monday, May 10th, 2010

Het weer van de afgelopen dagen zorgde voor nogal wat prestaties op Belgische kalk:

In Freyr wist Olivier Favresse de unieke “Masque à gaz” 8b op de Al’Lenge te toppen. Vermeldenswaardig is het feit dat hij de ketting haalde zonder karabiner of setje, voor om te bouwen, waardoor er niets anders over bleef dan springen… En dan te bedenken dat de route al heel spaarzaam is afgezekerd!

Olivier Coenen topte de moeilijke (nogal stevig voor de graad) “Excalibur” 8a, ook op de Al’Lenge.

Al'Lenge in Freyr

Ook Vermeldenswaardig is de herhaling van “Cool Cat” 8a+ door Manu Vaneberg. Hoezo kleine greepjes…

In Bomal topte de jonge Duitser Philipp Peters de combi “Yahoo! – sortie One Way Ticket” 8a. Gut gemacht Philipp! Jetzt wird’s aber mal Zeit für eine 8a in Freyr 😉

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